Rockinghorse Ridge

Access: Pitkin Creek TH
Start: 0649, 10/6/2019
Partner: Corey Dobson
Climb Rating: 4
Duration: 1:01 to Pitkin Lake
                2:05 to Peak U (W. Partner)
                2:57 to Rockinghorse
                3:45 to Peak P
                4:35 to East Booth Pass
                5:33 to Booth Falls TH
                5:41 back to Pitkin Creek TH
Total Distance: 14.25 mi
Vertical: 7000'
Summit: West Partner (U) 13,041' ; Rockinghorse 12,680'; P 12,965'
Weather: 25-60F/bluebird
Nearest Town: Vail, CO

I'm a bit of a Gore Range n0oB. Backpacking takes too long; hiking takes too long; so it took me awhile to realize that going light, running the access trails, and power hiking the steep slopes to access the interesting stuff is totally reasonable. I only really started visiting Gore summits from the Vail side in the fall of last year (Ripsaw) and their mysterious draw has only grown in that time. I've been fortunate to befriend a group of Eagle runners that share the same running to scramble MO so this summer has been open season.

With warm high pressure extending into October, one last push deep and high into the Gore felt obligatory this autumn. Corey wanted to make a hard effort up to Pitkin Lake and West Partner while I'd been wanting to tackle Rockinghorse Ridge for awhile. So we decided to hammer the run up to Pitkin Lake then tap whatever's left in the tank for a push over to P from West Partner via Rockinghorse, concluded with a reverse traverse below Rockinghorse Ridge above the Upper Piney drainage back south to East Booth Pass and run back out to Booth Falls TH. Brandon Chalk gave great beta on this route. I thought the ridge could use a little more insight from the perspective of a rapid strike as opposed to climbing each and every spire in the course of a long day.

After originally planning on an 0530 start, we realized it's October. And Dark. And Cold. We pushed our start time back to 0630, even though... Still dark. Still cold (25F). I have no photos of the approach along Pitkin trail because I was mouth breathing through the entirety of it. Shockingly, a few flurries flew shortly before our arrival at Pitkin Lake before the skies completely cleared. The warm inviting alpenglow on the Partners hung only a couple hundred feet overhead. It taunted us while I warded off frostbite filling my bottles in a stream.

East Partner and the Partner Traverse from West Partner's south approach

Pitkin Lake with Outpost Peak and Holy Cross in the distance from the approach to West Partner

We ascended the grassy slopes south of West Partner mercifully meeting the sun halfway. After gaining the false summit visible from Pitkin Lake, the scrambling commenced. It was mostly a 3rd class blocky ridge run. Most of the exposure to the east was avoidable to the west typical of the range. I decided to have a go at a down sloping knife edge on the ridge proper. It abruptly ended in a cleft with a tricky down climb required to get off. Corey easily skirted it on a ledge west.

Navigating the knife edge leading to West Partner

Corey climbing West Partner's summit block

From West Partner, the descent onto Rockinghorse ridge started as an innocuous walk off. Before long, the terrain steepened drawing us back toward the ridge proper. Most difficulties could still be bypassed to the west.

Corey riding the ridge, Peak P in the distance

Standing on the ridge with West Partner behind

We bypassed all the towers besides Rockinghorse. From below the ridge proper, it was a direct climb from the west up to Rockinghorse. Corey gained it with some class 3-4 ledges on the west. I climbed it from the south with an awkward arm jam into an offwidth and some smearing. Felt like low 5th class without much exposure - 15 foot climb from a ledge.

A precarious tower we skirted to the left; Peak P in the background

The Rockinghorse

Atop Rockinghorse

The Spider and Fly looking down into Upper Piney from Rockinghorse

We had assumed we were past the difficulties of the ridge after summiting Rockinghorse until we walked upon the edge of a 40 foot cliff guarding a gully. I assumed I could skirt it with a short scramble down off ridge, but the cliff extended around to the west and south forming a peninsula around us. Barring backtracking and down climbing a couple hundred feet, it seemingly severed further access north.  Corey discovered a single crack in the face of the cliff that we were able to down climb at 4th-5th class. The exposure was a bit unnerving. This was near the low point of the ridge.

Down climbing to the P saddle after Rockinghorse

Down climbing the cliff bands; I'm in the center of the photo

The start of the climb from the the saddle onto the P ridge had another shorter, though equally tricky, down climb into a notch before a 2nd class ascent to P's summit. The summit of P offered impressive views of Q, L, Ripsaw, the Partners and the Spider. It's the deepest I've felt in the Gore thus far- only about 3.5 hours from the trailhead.

Corey climbing the ridge; Peak P behind

Pink Quartz

Looking down Slate Creek from P's summit; Q right; L left

We backtracked along P's ridge and started descending west from the ridge before the the last notch we had previously down climbed. From there it was traversing on grass and talus blocks above Upper Pitkin Lake over to East Booth Pass. East Booth Pass had a beautiful view into the Booth drainage and the upper tarn. From here, it was an easy descent on grass to the tarn followed by a steep grassy gully down to the lower lake and main trail where we were able to quickly descend to the golden valley below in under 6 hours roundtrip car to car.

Booth's Upper Tarn looking down from East Booth Pass

Running down along Booth

The Punch Buggy Traverse (Peak V/East Partner to W)

Access: Pitkin Creek TH
Start: 0540, 9/15/2019
Partners: Jon Harrison, Corey Dobson, Dan MacArthur
Climb Rating: 4
Duration: 1:20 to Pitkin Lake
                2:20 to Peak V (E. Partner)
                3:20 to Peak W
                4:53 back to TH
Total Distance: 12 mi
Vertical: 5200'
Summit: V 13,057'; W 12,775'
Weather: 40-65F/bluebird
Nearest Town: Vail, CO

After plan A, Peak A (Eagles Nest) fell through for the second time this summer, I was lucky enough to receive an invite for an audible up to the Pitkin Lake cirque for the VW traverse ("Punch Buggy"  copyright Jon Harrison 2019) from an Eagle crew that is more familiar with the Gore approaches from the west. I drove over late the night before and crashed in the back of my truck at the Pitkin Creek trailhead. After being lulled to sleep by the semis screaming down I-70, I was jolted back to the land of the living by my alarm at 0450.

Lackadaisically cooking breakfast like a mindless zombie was a mistake. I assumed the guys would be a little late to the trailhead since it seems like most everyone's on mountain time in Summit. However, this was a group of dads. Doting fathers who wish to keep pursuing Gore summits without upsetting familial harmony are punctual and efficient. And we were a group of 4 of them.

My oatmeal and coffee went down like light beer, and we were running upward and onward toward Pitkin Lake by 0540. We all discussed the prospects of the Partner Traverse but were leery of it without rope so we settled on a plan to traverse to W from V with basically no knowledge of the route beyond topos. Rope be dammed.

New slide path along Pitkin Creek

Alpenglow on W. Partner above Pitkin Lake 

IN THE SPIRIT OF THE GORE, I'm going to be intentionally vague and blah blah blah... I won't go into the details of E. Partner just because there's already plenty of beta out there. From the lake, use steep grass to gain the saddle, and then pick your way along the a system of ridges and gullies to gain the summit block. The south ridge to E. Partner was solid 3rd class without too much exposure beyond one slabby loose gully.

Accessing E. Partner's S. Ridge

Ascending E. Partner's S. Ridge

Climbing the crux of E. Partner

E. Partner summit shot

Dan contemplating life and "W"

Having made good time up to E. Partner and still feeling fresh, we agreed on making the plunge into the unknown with the traverse to W. Cursory searches for beta on it turned up nothing on summitpost and 14ers. We descended a couple hundred feet to a saddle with an unnamed subpeak. It was fairly guarded by airy slabs off the backside so we located a ledge to the left/NW around it. This ended at the base of a slabby wall. We thought we were going to have to descend a steep loose gully to bypass it but then found that the left arete of the slabs would go. 

NW passage

Somewhere on the ridge

The arete

Climbing the arete led to the ridge proper. It was a blocky, solid traverse that finally terminated in a cliff. Down climbing to the right/south we located a grassy ledge that paralleled the ridge. The ledge led to a steep unpassable gouge in the ledge. Luckily, some 3rd class scrambling regained the ridge, leading to an airy but solid catwalk that ended the difficulties of the traverse.

Corey having regained the ridge

Running the catwalk

W's summit was a short hike on grass and large blocks from this point.

The Eagle squad

Summiting

We descended directly off the summit on grass down to the Usable Pass drainage and rejoined Pitkin Creek trail. Pleasant, remarkably seamless Gore outing.

Pilot Mountain to Hanging Rock (PM2HR) 50K

 
Location: Danbury, NC; Pilot Mountain SP to Hanging Rock SP via the Sauratown Trail
Date Run: 10/15/2016, 0730 start
Duration: 4:21:21
Place: 1 out of 126
Average Pace: 8:24
Elevation: 750' to 2050'
Weather: 50-70F, clear
Race Website: http://pm2hrultras.com/

About a two hour drive north of Charlotte, 12 miles south of the border with Virginia roughly halfway between nowhere and someplace is a little town called Danbury. It would be unremarkable were it not in the shadow of two impressive state parks - Hanging Rock and Pilot Mountain. Both have rapids on the Dan River, multipitch sport and trad climbing, and an impressive trail network connected between the parks by the Sauratown Trail.

I stumbled upon the race website while perusing runningintheusa.com. It had a couple main draws. 

Of the dozens of race formats I've done, my preferences go:

1. Point to point (Imogene Pass Run in CO)
2. Loop (Breck Crest in CO)
3. Out and back (Cloudsplitter in KY)
4. Repeating sections (I avoid these)

PM2HR is a point to point between state parks and it looked scenic based on the cherry picked photos from the website. In person it equally really impressed. Pilot Mountain rises slowly from the valley like most other Appalachia humps but the top is capped by an almost perfectly cylindrical shear rock wall. Hanging Rock has beautiful waterfalls in the valley floor of the park, while 1500 feet above and a 2 mi hike away are shear cliffs with unobstructed views of the surrounding countryside.

I met my college friend Aaron in Danbury the night before the race. We stayed at a cozy 2 bedroom called the Wren Roost in the Whippoorwill Inn. There was no front desk, didn't see the owners once the entire weekend; but there was key underneath the doormat and the place was clean. The town really had limited dining options. I was thrilled to find hot cheetos and takis at the corner market but would have preferred a banana. The River Rock Cafe on the outskirts of town had a decent pasta dish adequate for a pre-race meal.

The race was a point to point from ::drumroll:: Pilot Mountain to Hanging Rock, so for $10 a bus shuttled runners from the finish to the start. Within five minutes of departing HR at 0630, our bus was pulled over. Turns out the driver, in addition to not signaling, was also going the wrong way so the officer kindly escorted us to the start. Despite it being 0715, dawn had yet to arrive. There were only two urinals available for the 135 50k runners. Usually I try to take care of business before arriving at the start but the coffee failed me so I was resigned to waiting in the dark line for half an hour. The rising sun moved in sync with the line illuminating Pilot Mountain in the distance. 

After a brief pre-race meeting lamenting the closure of portions of the Sauratown Trail and reroutes on pavement, the gun went off at 0745. The 50k started in Pilot Mountain, but only the 50 milers actually ran in the park. The 50k just skirted the edge of the park quickly jumping on the Sauratown on a fast descent leading out of PM. Four of us charged down the wide trail going sub 7:00 for the first mile. Once the trail flattened so did the pace. The pack dispersed and after the first four miles I was alone in the front where I remained through the finish.

Sauratown Trail was primarily rolling technical single track with one significant climb starting at mile 10. The trail had a lot of flow to it but also had infrequent road crossings and portions that ran along the road. It was less than optimal but unavoidable because of trail closures. Mile 17 through mile 20 just before entering HR Park consisted of a long climb along the road. The pavement was warm and draining.

There was an aid station before leaving the road and entering the HR trail system but I didn't take in enough electrolytes. After the 1000' climb from the road to the race's highest point in HR, I was left with an electrolyte imbalance. On the rapid technical descent from Moore's Wall, I took a digger on the technical downhill and both of my hamstrings locked. One of the race organizers marking the trail climbed toward me from the opposite direction but hadn't seen me go down. After telling me I was crushing it from a distance he broke mid sentence asking "Uhhh... doing okay?" Guess I looked off balance and shaken - the blood dripping down my leg might've been a clue too. He quickly rifled through his pack leaving me with pretzels and a bottle of water on the fly. 

His gesture really saved my race. There wasn't another aid station for 3 more miles of steep quad crushing downhill that transitioned from single track to crowded concrete walkway. My handheld was drained and I was running on fumes by the time I rolled into the aid station at the parking lot of the HR visitor center. I had a PB&J, drank half a liter of water, and for the first time in my life, I downed a salt tablet. It actually worked and the intermittent cramping in my hamstrings eased. The aid station volunteers informed me I was out front by 20 mins. I relaxed my pace some as I descended further through HR. 

The trail from the visitor center gave way to steep stairs that navigated through beautiful waterfalls near the floor of the park. In light of my lead, I decided I wanted a picture taken in front of the falls. I failed to bring my phone so I asked a random park visitor for assistance. The man hesitantly admitted to having a phone. After I explained I was running a race and didn't want to miss the chance to take a picture in front of the falls he quickly acquiesced. I passed off my phone number on the fly and continued down the stairs to the base of the falls.

Knowing I was about 26 miles in, I conserved energy through the flats to avoid a late race bonk. An abundance of stream crossings peppered with picturesque fallen autumn leaves kept my pace in check. When the course finally emerged from the underbrush of Hanging Rock onto a gravel road, my GPS put me at 29 mi. The course ended rather abruptly a half mile later 1.5mi short of 31. I crossed the line in 4:21, first overall. The next finisher came through in 4:55 so I was alone with the volunteers for awhile. I grabbed the free finisher beer and hobbled down to the Dan River adjacent to the finish line. There was a raft put-in providing a convenient spot to hop in and soak my legs. As more runners finished, the riverside bar at the finish line provided the perfect spot to unwind and hang out. My buddy Aaron finished in the front end of the pack in around 6 hours. Wasting no time, we grabbed more beers and got back in the river making a perfect end to a great race.

Ratings

Race Organization (5=phenomenal, 1=atrocious): 4/5
The good: Well marked, plenty of food at aid stations, diverse beautiful course with a great finisher area.
The bad: Did I mention the shuttle driver was pulled over on the way to the start?

Course Difficulty (5=Pikes Peak Ascent, 1=a flat dirt road): 3/5
I took a digger. I never take diggers. The technical downhill sections were fast requiring focus. Though the road sections - not so much. The climbing was moderately challenging but not demoralizing.

Course Scenery (5=engagement proposal backdrop, 1=concrete walls): 4/5
A point to point in the fall with plenty of elevation changes and a diversity of terrain I rarely see in the east.

Schwag (5=a tech T, embroidered towel & warmup pants, 1=a cotton shirt): 4/5
Unique finisher medal, framed plaque for winning, free finisher beer, and a sweatshirt

Overall: 5/5

The brief road sections and bathroom line at the start were the only drawbacks of this race. Even getting pulled over provided quality conversation fodder. Courses like this are why I love trail running.

The Cloudsplitter 50K

 
Location: Pine Mountain State Scenic Trail, Elkhorn City, KY
Date Run: 10/3/2015, 0800 start
Duration: 5:38:50
Place: 1 out of 50
Average Pace: 10:54
Elevation: 800' to 3042'
Weather: 50-60F, rain and fog
Race Website: http://www.cloudsplitter100.com/CSHome.shtml

Elkhorn City lies in the far southeast of Kentucky right along the border with Virginia deep in the heart of the Appalachians. The Russell Fork of the Big Sandy River provides class IV rapids running right through town in a beautiful rural mountain setting. Think Deliverance. A ten minute drive up the hill from Elkhorn City leads to Breaks Interstate Park and the home of the deepest gorge east of the Mississippi River. Often referred to as "The Grand Canyon of the South", The Breaks provides breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and the Russell Fork 1000' below. 

The Race

Breaks is also the northeastern terminus of Pine Mountain, a 125 mile long ridge along which the Cloudsplitter 50K, 100K, and 100 miler run. The course starts in Elkhorn City climbing continuously for the first 8 miles along a broad rocky trail up to the ridge line.

Historically, October is the driest month in eastern Kentucky. The incessant rain did not care. The rain started about 20 minutes into the race and did not stop for about 3 hours. One particular section of the trail 8 miles into the race was in the process of being logged. As a result there was an enormous unavoidable half foot deep mud pit. Beyond the speed trap, the race really started living up to the name. Whereas in town it was cloudy, atop the ridge runners entered the clouds. There were several exposed slab crossings providing open views of the surrounding mountains along the fault line. 

But these views were completely obscured for most of the race. 

Along the ridge, the trail undulated from these exposed rock crossings to dipping a couple hundred feet below into the woods. 

All races were out and back courses. For the 50K, the midpoint of the course was the Birch Knob tower. Two miles from the turn around at the Birch Knob aid station I was the first runner to go through. Climbing a gentle incline with my head angled down I suddenly heard a low growl. By the time I lifted my head all I observed was a big furry butt 50 yards ahead disappearing into the woods on the right side of the trail. Smoky sent my heart rate through the roof. I cruised into the aid station and maintained the momentum through the rest of the race to come in first and set the course record in the second year of the Cloudsplitter 50K. 

It took the race organizers a moment to realize I had finished though. The finish through town was not very well marked. I navigated to the finish line simply by knowing the location of the park. Upon arriving at a locked gate on the opposite side of the ball field holding the finish line, I navigate through another gate that was not the intended course. I think a lot of the people there hardly noticed I finished. After about 30 seconds someone said, "Oh, wow... that's the first 50K finisher!" before giving me the hardware. The finish line had delicious pulled pork sandwiches on hand and plenty of pop. In the future some fruit and gatorade... and beer would be nice additions (although Elkhorn City seems to be a dry town). 

Ratings

Race Organization (5=phenomenal, 1=atrocious): 3/5
Some runners felt the course was poorly marked but I think it just required careful attention. Without the rain, it would have been much easier to navigate. The aid stations were generally well stocked with Hammer gels, water, HEED, and fruit although one aid station ran out of water on the return trip through. And the marking for the end of the race through town left something to be desired. I imagine the rough edges will be ironed out in future years.

Course Difficulty (5=Pikes Peak Ascent, 1=a flat dirt road): 4/5
 The rain made everything a little bit slick. The 8000+' of total climbing was difficult, but being at such low altitude made it completely manageable.

Course Scenery (5=engagement proposal backdrop, 1=concrete walls): 5/5
 The ridge line unleashed gorgeous gorges through the brief breaks in the fog. The vegetation was lush and diverse. I saw a frickin' bear.

Schwag (5=a tech T, embroidered towel & warmup pants, 1=a cotton shirt): 3/5
Got a long sleeved tech tee and some decent coffee. Impressive medal.

Overall: 4/5
Despite the rain and the views obscured by an eerie white, I really loved this race. An agonizing relentless climb to start with,  exposed slab crossing, and fast technical single track really made it enjoyable.  The course had a unique character of its own. This race is worth the trip to the Kentucky-Virginia border.