Pilot Mountain to Hanging Rock (PM2HR) 50K

 
Location: Danbury, NC; Pilot Mountain SP to Hanging Rock SP via the Sauratown Trail
Date Run: 10/15/2016, 0730 start
Duration: 4:21:21
Place: 1 out of 126
Average Pace: 8:24
Elevation: 750' to 2050'
Weather: 50-70F, clear
Race Website: http://pm2hrultras.com/

About a two hour drive north of Charlotte, 12 miles south of the border with Virginia roughly halfway between nowhere and someplace is a little town called Danbury. It would be unremarkable were it not in the shadow of two impressive state parks - Hanging Rock and Pilot Mountain. Both have rapids on the Dan River, multipitch sport and trad climbing, and an impressive trail network connected between the parks by the Sauratown Trail.

I stumbled upon the race website while perusing runningintheusa.com. It had a couple main draws. 

Of the dozens of race formats I've done, my preferences go:

1. Point to point (Imogene Pass Run in CO)
2. Loop (Breck Crest in CO)
3. Out and back (Cloudsplitter in KY)
4. Repeating sections (I avoid these)

PM2HR is a point to point between state parks and it looked scenic based on the cherry picked photos from the website. In person it equally really impressed. Pilot Mountain rises slowly from the valley like most other Appalachia humps but the top is capped by an almost perfectly cylindrical shear rock wall. Hanging Rock has beautiful waterfalls in the valley floor of the park, while 1500 feet above and a 2 mi hike away are shear cliffs with unobstructed views of the surrounding countryside.

I met my college friend Aaron in Danbury the night before the race. We stayed at a cozy 2 bedroom called the Wren Roost in the Whippoorwill Inn. There was no front desk, didn't see the owners once the entire weekend; but there was key underneath the doormat and the place was clean. The town really had limited dining options. I was thrilled to find hot cheetos and takis at the corner market but would have preferred a banana. The River Rock Cafe on the outskirts of town had a decent pasta dish adequate for a pre-race meal.

The race was a point to point from ::drumroll:: Pilot Mountain to Hanging Rock, so for $10 a bus shuttled runners from the finish to the start. Within five minutes of departing HR at 0630, our bus was pulled over. Turns out the driver, in addition to not signaling, was also going the wrong way so the officer kindly escorted us to the start. Despite it being 0715, dawn had yet to arrive. There were only two urinals available for the 135 50k runners. Usually I try to take care of business before arriving at the start but the coffee failed me so I was resigned to waiting in the dark line for half an hour. The rising sun moved in sync with the line illuminating Pilot Mountain in the distance. 

After a brief pre-race meeting lamenting the closure of portions of the Sauratown Trail and reroutes on pavement, the gun went off at 0745. The 50k started in Pilot Mountain, but only the 50 milers actually ran in the park. The 50k just skirted the edge of the park quickly jumping on the Sauratown on a fast descent leading out of PM. Four of us charged down the wide trail going sub 7:00 for the first mile. Once the trail flattened so did the pace. The pack dispersed and after the first four miles I was alone in the front where I remained through the finish.

Sauratown Trail was primarily rolling technical single track with one significant climb starting at mile 10. The trail had a lot of flow to it but also had infrequent road crossings and portions that ran along the road. It was less than optimal but unavoidable because of trail closures. Mile 17 through mile 20 just before entering HR Park consisted of a long climb along the road. The pavement was warm and draining.

There was an aid station before leaving the road and entering the HR trail system but I didn't take in enough electrolytes. After the 1000' climb from the road to the race's highest point in HR, I was left with an electrolyte imbalance. On the rapid technical descent from Moore's Wall, I took a digger on the technical downhill and both of my hamstrings locked. One of the race organizers marking the trail climbed toward me from the opposite direction but hadn't seen me go down. After telling me I was crushing it from a distance he broke mid sentence asking "Uhhh... doing okay?" Guess I looked off balance and shaken - the blood dripping down my leg might've been a clue too. He quickly rifled through his pack leaving me with pretzels and a bottle of water on the fly. 

His gesture really saved my race. There wasn't another aid station for 3 more miles of steep quad crushing downhill that transitioned from single track to crowded concrete walkway. My handheld was drained and I was running on fumes by the time I rolled into the aid station at the parking lot of the HR visitor center. I had a PB&J, drank half a liter of water, and for the first time in my life, I downed a salt tablet. It actually worked and the intermittent cramping in my hamstrings eased. The aid station volunteers informed me I was out front by 20 mins. I relaxed my pace some as I descended further through HR. 

The trail from the visitor center gave way to steep stairs that navigated through beautiful waterfalls near the floor of the park. In light of my lead, I decided I wanted a picture taken in front of the falls. I failed to bring my phone so I asked a random park visitor for assistance. The man hesitantly admitted to having a phone. After I explained I was running a race and didn't want to miss the chance to take a picture in front of the falls he quickly acquiesced. I passed off my phone number on the fly and continued down the stairs to the base of the falls.

Knowing I was about 26 miles in, I conserved energy through the flats to avoid a late race bonk. An abundance of stream crossings peppered with picturesque fallen autumn leaves kept my pace in check. When the course finally emerged from the underbrush of Hanging Rock onto a gravel road, my GPS put me at 29 mi. The course ended rather abruptly a half mile later 1.5mi short of 31. I crossed the line in 4:21, first overall. The next finisher came through in 4:55 so I was alone with the volunteers for awhile. I grabbed the free finisher beer and hobbled down to the Dan River adjacent to the finish line. There was a raft put-in providing a convenient spot to hop in and soak my legs. As more runners finished, the riverside bar at the finish line provided the perfect spot to unwind and hang out. My buddy Aaron finished in the front end of the pack in around 6 hours. Wasting no time, we grabbed more beers and got back in the river making a perfect end to a great race.

Ratings

Race Organization (5=phenomenal, 1=atrocious): 4/5
The good: Well marked, plenty of food at aid stations, diverse beautiful course with a great finisher area.
The bad: Did I mention the shuttle driver was pulled over on the way to the start?

Course Difficulty (5=Pikes Peak Ascent, 1=a flat dirt road): 3/5
I took a digger. I never take diggers. The technical downhill sections were fast requiring focus. Though the road sections - not so much. The climbing was moderately challenging but not demoralizing.

Course Scenery (5=engagement proposal backdrop, 1=concrete walls): 4/5
A point to point in the fall with plenty of elevation changes and a diversity of terrain I rarely see in the east.

Schwag (5=a tech T, embroidered towel & warmup pants, 1=a cotton shirt): 4/5
Unique finisher medal, framed plaque for winning, free finisher beer, and a sweatshirt

Overall: 5/5

The brief road sections and bathroom line at the start were the only drawbacks of this race. Even getting pulled over provided quality conversation fodder. Courses like this are why I love trail running.

Wambaw Swamp Stomp 50k

 
 Location: Swamp Fox Passage of the Palmetto Trail, Witherbee Ranger Station in Francis Marion NF, SC (north of Charleston)
Date Run: 5/7/2016, 0730 start
Duration: 4:19:58
Place: 1 out of 30
Average Pace: 8:20
Elevation: Sea Level (South Carolina Low Country)
Weather: 55-75F, clear
Race Website: https://ultrasignup.com/register.aspx?did=33694

My mother retired to north-central Florida. In the course of planning a visit, I found an ultra within a 6 hour drive in a state I had yet to run one knowing nothing else about the race. The 'Low Country' of South Carolina is a region along the coast south and east of the Sandhills marking the ancient sea coast as well as a distinct cultural line. So I guess this race report is bringing some Low Country Beta. Honestly, I was not overly concerned with the history of the area. I had visited Charleston prior and was focused on quickly knocking out one more state in my pursuit of running a marathon or better in every state.

I hustled into the town of Goose Creek in the middle of rush hour traffic after charging all day along I-95. Sitting and stretching in bumper to bumper traffic along the capillaries of the GC gave me a great opportunity to take in the sites immediately viewable from my vehicle: congested strip malls filled with Bojangles, boarded up Blockbusters, and pawn shops offering pay day loans. I pulled into my cheap airbnb in a row of shoddy townhomes and settled in for the night.

The Witherbee Ranger Station is located on the western edge of the Francis Marion National Forest. In my 40 minute drive from Goose Creek, the strip malls mercifully gave way to open roads through shallow swamps and a young pine forested landscape.

Ranger Lookout Tower at the Start

The location was ideal for hosting an ultra. In its fourth year, the race was still rather small. I don't think there were more than 60 people there running in the two distances offered - 50k and 50mi (and relays of each distance).

Pre-race Registration

At the start, the 50k course immediately split from the 50mi so as to add on an extra mile along a dirt road to make the 15 mi course a full 31 miles with the out and back along the Swamp Fox Passage of the Palmetto Trail.

This made for a chase scenario with the 50k runners pursuing the 50 milers. I rather enjoyed this setup. I ran with another competitor, Todd, at the front for the first 1/8 of the race. Despite chatting we were still putting in 7:15/miles from the outset. We had picked off all but three of the 50 milers by the time we reached the first aid station 6 miles in. I knew I couldn't maintain that pace. When Todd stopped to pee at the first aid station I continued on. While I enjoyed the conversation, my competitive nature kicked in and I wanted to focus more on breathing and pacing. I figured if Todd caught up he would either win with ease or be so gassed that he would bonk later.

The course followed mostly single track through sparse new growth pines with a forest floor covered in ferns for the first half and thicker swamp vegetation through the second. Occasionally the trail gave way to boardwalks to traverse the marshy landscape as well as several dirt road crossings. Most of the course was well shaded. Aid stations were roughly 5 miles apart making a single handheld bottle carry adequate. Just before the second aid station at 11 miles, the course emerged from the woods and went along an open paved road for a mile. It ducked back into the forest at the aid station. By this point I had passed all the 50 milers and I was alone at the front. I fell into a rhythm and ran off course around mile 13. Instead of turning sharp right after a foot bridge I ran straight into a swamp for a 1/4 mi. Not until I climbed atop a dead log and viewed a landscape of a hundred more fallen soldiers did I realize my mistake and backtrack.

Photo courtesy of Brian Fancher Photography

I thought for sure Todd had caught me with the blunder but at the turnaround aid station I was informed I was the first one through. Not until I had started back a couple miles did I run into Todd. He turned around on the spot and started running with me. He had taken a wrong turn as well, but instead of realizing his mistake he proceeded down an old fire road for a couple miles and lost a lot of time. Rather than tacking on another 5 miles to his 50k he decided just to turn around with me. After running together for a few miles, the temperature continued to climb into the 70s and Todd fell back along the open road section of the course. I was alone again for the remainder of the race. My steady 7:45/mi pace gave way to a 9:30/mi pace for the last 5 miles of the race. Coming from the mountains, I don't adapt well to heat and humidity.

Nonetheless, I crossed the finish line first before noon. The Witherbee Ranger Station was completely devoid of human activity outside of a lone volunteer recording finishers and one woman off to the side sunbathing patiently waiting for her husband to finish running. I had to confirm that that was in fact the official finish line. After several minutes, the lead 50 miler rolled in and other racers started showing up, as did the race director Chad Haffa.  He unceremoniously distributed finisher coins and schwag to the three of us 50k finishers standing around. It was a beautiful day so I hung out at the finish line for another twenty minutes chatting with Chad. He organizes a lot of races and really seemed to pour his heart and soul into putting on a (relatively) well marked quality event. You can find out about the other races he directs here.

Ratings

Race Organization (5=phenomenal, 1=atrocious): 3/5
The good: The RD gave out his personal number a few days before the race and was responsive. Plenty of time was available race morning for packet pickup. The race was mostly well marked. The bad: The website lacked a course map and profile. Only 2 hours available for packet pickup the mid-day before the race.

Course Difficulty (5=Pikes Peak Ascent, 1=a flat dirt road): 2/5
It was so flat and so dry. There were a few holes leftover from rotted stumps that required dodging. The hardest part of the course was leaving the shady trail to run on pavement. Having said that, the lack of diversity in terrain really wore on my legs.

Course Scenery (5=engagement proposal backdrop, 1=concrete walls): 3/5
Enjoyed running through ferns and shady swamplands but missed those scenes you can only find with changes in elevation.

Schwag (5=a tech T, embroidered towel & warmup pants, 1=a cotton shirt): 3/5
Instead of a medal there was a coin but it was not personalized to the year or the 50k distance. For winning, I received arm warmers, a balaclava and some runner's goo. Some kind of hardware commemorating a 1st place finish would have been nice. No beer permitted at the finish but each of a beer mug and a beer glass given out to registrants along with a tech T.

Overall: 3/5

Enjoyed the backdrop and the RD's commitment but races with some elevation change I find more rewarding. 

The Cloudsplitter 50K

 
Location: Pine Mountain State Scenic Trail, Elkhorn City, KY
Date Run: 10/3/2015, 0800 start
Duration: 5:38:50
Place: 1 out of 50
Average Pace: 10:54
Elevation: 800' to 3042'
Weather: 50-60F, rain and fog
Race Website: http://www.cloudsplitter100.com/CSHome.shtml

Elkhorn City lies in the far southeast of Kentucky right along the border with Virginia deep in the heart of the Appalachians. The Russell Fork of the Big Sandy River provides class IV rapids running right through town in a beautiful rural mountain setting. Think Deliverance. A ten minute drive up the hill from Elkhorn City leads to Breaks Interstate Park and the home of the deepest gorge east of the Mississippi River. Often referred to as "The Grand Canyon of the South", The Breaks provides breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and the Russell Fork 1000' below. 

The Race

Breaks is also the northeastern terminus of Pine Mountain, a 125 mile long ridge along which the Cloudsplitter 50K, 100K, and 100 miler run. The course starts in Elkhorn City climbing continuously for the first 8 miles along a broad rocky trail up to the ridge line.

Historically, October is the driest month in eastern Kentucky. The incessant rain did not care. The rain started about 20 minutes into the race and did not stop for about 3 hours. One particular section of the trail 8 miles into the race was in the process of being logged. As a result there was an enormous unavoidable half foot deep mud pit. Beyond the speed trap, the race really started living up to the name. Whereas in town it was cloudy, atop the ridge runners entered the clouds. There were several exposed slab crossings providing open views of the surrounding mountains along the fault line. 

But these views were completely obscured for most of the race. 

Along the ridge, the trail undulated from these exposed rock crossings to dipping a couple hundred feet below into the woods. 

All races were out and back courses. For the 50K, the midpoint of the course was the Birch Knob tower. Two miles from the turn around at the Birch Knob aid station I was the first runner to go through. Climbing a gentle incline with my head angled down I suddenly heard a low growl. By the time I lifted my head all I observed was a big furry butt 50 yards ahead disappearing into the woods on the right side of the trail. Smoky sent my heart rate through the roof. I cruised into the aid station and maintained the momentum through the rest of the race to come in first and set the course record in the second year of the Cloudsplitter 50K. 

It took the race organizers a moment to realize I had finished though. The finish through town was not very well marked. I navigated to the finish line simply by knowing the location of the park. Upon arriving at a locked gate on the opposite side of the ball field holding the finish line, I navigate through another gate that was not the intended course. I think a lot of the people there hardly noticed I finished. After about 30 seconds someone said, "Oh, wow... that's the first 50K finisher!" before giving me the hardware. The finish line had delicious pulled pork sandwiches on hand and plenty of pop. In the future some fruit and gatorade... and beer would be nice additions (although Elkhorn City seems to be a dry town). 

Ratings

Race Organization (5=phenomenal, 1=atrocious): 3/5
Some runners felt the course was poorly marked but I think it just required careful attention. Without the rain, it would have been much easier to navigate. The aid stations were generally well stocked with Hammer gels, water, HEED, and fruit although one aid station ran out of water on the return trip through. And the marking for the end of the race through town left something to be desired. I imagine the rough edges will be ironed out in future years.

Course Difficulty (5=Pikes Peak Ascent, 1=a flat dirt road): 4/5
 The rain made everything a little bit slick. The 8000+' of total climbing was difficult, but being at such low altitude made it completely manageable.

Course Scenery (5=engagement proposal backdrop, 1=concrete walls): 5/5
 The ridge line unleashed gorgeous gorges through the brief breaks in the fog. The vegetation was lush and diverse. I saw a frickin' bear.

Schwag (5=a tech T, embroidered towel & warmup pants, 1=a cotton shirt): 3/5
Got a long sleeved tech tee and some decent coffee. Impressive medal.

Overall: 4/5
Despite the rain and the views obscured by an eerie white, I really loved this race. An agonizing relentless climb to start with,  exposed slab crossing, and fast technical single track really made it enjoyable.  The course had a unique character of its own. This race is worth the trip to the Kentucky-Virginia border.